Atopic dermatitis, AD for short, also known as eczema, is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that most often appears in early childhood and in many cases accompanies patients throughout their lives, with periods of exacerbation and remission. It is caused by the abnormal response of our immune system to allergens. Symptoms can be very bothersome and include, among others local redness, dryness, peeling and itching. As this is a medical condition, first of all, you should consult a dermatologist and follow his recommendations. Nevertheless, proper skin care is crucial in relieving symptoms and thus improving the quality of life. So how can we help ourselves when we are faced with AD?

In the case of atopic skin care, attention should be paid in particular to proper hydration and lubrication, as well as regeneration and creation of a protective barrier that isolates the affected skin from external factors that may exacerbate the changes. And what specific ingredients to look for in cosmetics? The first group consists of humectants, i.e. substances that bind water in the epidermis and thus improve the level of its hydration. These include ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, urea, NMF (natural moisturizing factor, i.e. a mixture of water-soluble compounds found in the stratum corneum), xylitol (also known as birch sugar), panthenol (provitamin B5), allantoin, sorbitol, glycerin or extracts of aloe or licorice root.

In order for the moisture bound by humectants not to evaporate from the epidermis too quickly, we also need emollients, i.e. substances that form a protective layer on the surface that will slow down this process, called transepidermal water loss. It is also worth paying attention to the content of various types of oils in cosmetics. Hemp, linseed, jojoba, sweet almond, borage and evening primrose oils are especially recommended for atopic skin. Plant butters, such as shea, cocoa and mango butter, as well as beeswax and lanolin, will also work for patients with AD. Ceramides, vitamins and fatty acids contained in oils and butters also support the regeneration of the epidermis and rebuild its natural protective barrier.

There is much talk today about avoiding paraffin, petroleum jelly and mineral oil, but for people prone to allergies, these ingredients may work well. It is true that they do not provide additional nourishment, but due to thorough cleansing in the production process, they become neutral for the skin. They protect and soften it, minimizing the risk of irritation or an allergic reaction.

In specialized pharmaceutical products for the care of atopic skin, we often find substances with proven antipruritic properties, probiotics that restore the balance of microflora on the skin surface, or the versatile beta-glucan (a compound from the polysaccharide group), which strengthens, anti-inflammatory, soothes and accelerates the regeneration of the epidermis.

We already know what ingredients to look for in cosmetics for atopic skin. And what should we avoid when dealing with AD? In general, anything that can cause irritation and disrupt the skin’s hydrolipid barrier. This mainly applies to cleaning products. It is not the best idea to use traditional soap and shower gels while bathing, containing strong detergents, such as the popular SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) and SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate), but also Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Sodium Coco-Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate. or Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate. It is better to choose delicate cosmetics, for example washing oils. Currently, we have many products of this type on the market, which, thanks to the emulsifier, turn into a milky emulsion under the influence of water and rinse completely, ensuring a feeling of freshness and cleanliness without drying out or feeling tight. There is also a wide selection of emulsions and delicate gels, so we have a lot to choose from.

You should also pay attention to strong preservatives that can irritate the skin. Among them, it is worth mentioning parabens and compounds that can release formaldehyde (eg DMDM ??Hydantoin, Diazolidinyl Urea, Imidiazolidinyl Urea). Their permissible amount in cosmetics is strictly defined by legal regulations, but in the case of sensitive skin, it is better to reach for products with milder preservatives, especially when it comes to permanent preparations, i.e. primarily creams and lotions. It is worth mentioning that you also have to be careful with plant substances, as there is a risk that they can cause an allergic reaction. The same is the case with the ingredients of the fragrance composition, so it is better to choose fragrance-free cosmetics. Atopic skin should be properly protected against sunlight and high temperature, but when choosing UV filters, it is better to use physical filters (titanium dioxide, zinc oxide) than chemical ones.

Skin care is not only the application of appropriate cosmetics. When supporting AD treatment, remember to avoid bathing in too cold or too hot water and rubbing the skin, especially with a rough towel. It is also worth choosing delicate detergents, for example those intended for washing children’s clothes, and paying attention to the materials from which our clothes are made. This applies especially to artificial fabrics and knitted fabrics that increase perspiration and dark colours, as the dyes used to obtain them may contain paraphenylenediamine, which is very sensitizing. This substance can also be found in hair dyes and products for darkening eyelashes and eyebrows or making a semi-permanent tattoo, i.e. henna.

By following the doctor’s recommendations, consciously choosing care products and remembering a few important rules in everyday life, you can effectively alleviate or even completely eliminate the symptoms of atopic dermatitis. It does not require significant effort, so it is worth paying attention to your skin and listening to its needs to be able to enjoy life without the limitations caused by this nagging ailment.

AUTHOR: Ewelina Nowobilska